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From the sultry streets of Buenos Aires to the wide-open, white-salt landscapes of Argentina’s north, this adventure is equal parts rugged and refined. Think: high-altitude desert drives, local folklore, dazzling salt flats, canyon hikes, and crisp Torrontés wine waiting at the finish line. The north is Argentina at its most raw and rewarding.

🌐 Route Overview: Buenos Aires to Jujuy & Salinas Grandes

We started this journey with a flight from Buenos Aires to Salta (SLA). We were driving up to Tilcara and our adventure found us before we even leave the rental lot. When the car rental desk ran out of automatics, we had the ultimate travel curveball: learning to drive stick on the spot by the car rental employees which resulted in us stalling behind an 18 wheeler not even a mile into the drive, frantically pulling into a gas station calling my dad who taught me how to drive a manual from thousands of miles away over the phone. Shout out to YouTube as well for the crash course. A trip that should have only taken two hours took around five. Dirt road, one lane each way, barely any street lights, police check points, construction. We made it safely thankfully and I count my blessings from going through that experience (when people ask, ‘what’s the craziest thing you’ve done? that’s it) - it was worth it to explore one of the most underrated corners of the entire country.

⛰ Tilcara & La Garganta del Diablo: Hiking Into the Andes

Tilcara is a bohemian village steeped in Andean heritage. The main square buzzes with cozy cafes, local artisans, and weekend folklore festivals. Beyond the charming streets, the landscape offers serious adventure.

Must-do:

The short, scenic hike to La Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) — a deep red-rock canyon that slices through the hills just outside town.
Exploring the Pucará de Tilcara, a pre-Incan fortress with panoramic views of the Quebrada de Humahuaca valley.

Where to Stay in Tilcara:

Las Marias Hotel Boutique — understated luxury meets rustic Andean charm.
Villa del Cielo — cozy, locally-run suites with breathtaking mountain views.
La Mala Reputacion Hostel & Bar - chill hostel with private rooms and bar

🧁 Salinas Grandes: Argentina's Dazzling Salt Desert

Getting to the Salinas Grandes (Salt Lands) is no easy trek either (windy roads, mountaineous). Thankfully, we met a native military kid on our hike the day prior and he was solo. He offered to drive our manual to the salt lands if he could accompany us on the adventure (one of those life moments where you question if this is safe… but he was harmless, we ended up having lunch at his parents house and he gave me tips & tricks for how to drive a manual vehicle). A glistening white plain under a piercing blue sky, Salinas Grandes is a natural wonder at 3,450 meters (11,300 ft) above sea level. The salt here stretches endlessly, framed by the distant silhouettes of the Andes. It’s less trafficked than Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni but every bit as cinematic.

Don’t miss:

Booking a local guide at the salt flats entrance to understand the geology and salt extraction process
Those classic salt-flat perspective photos (yes, they’re mandatory)
Timing your visit for golden hour — the light here is pure magic
Sunscreen - the sun is extra strong here from the salt and reflected water

🍷 Cafayate: Argentina’s Underrated Wine Capital

Good news for the road-trip weary: after some well-timed feedback to Hertz about the surprise manual car situation, we managed to swap into an automatic before continuing on to Cafayate — a highly recommended upgrade for the region’s winding mountain roads. After our time in Jujuy and Tilcara, we swapped for the automatic and made our way down south to relax in beautiful wine country: Cafayate — Argentina's high-altitude wine oasis. The star here is Torrontés, an aromatic white grape grown almost exclusively in this region, but you'll also find Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, and other varietals. This is the kind of place where you sip chilled white wine surrounded by cactus-covered hills and boutique vineyards.

Where to Sip and Stay:

Piattelli Vineyards — award-winning wines and an elegant tasting room
Bodega El Esteco — historic winery offering both tours and a stay at their on-site colonial-style hotel
Patios de Cafayate — a luxury hotel nestled among vineyards; think Spanish courtyards, mountain views, and top-notch service

Restaurant Highlights:

Bad Brothers Wine Experience — intimate tapas and wine pairings
Pacha Cocina de Autor — locally-sourced, creative takes on Andean classics
La Rosa en Patios de Cafayate — upscale yet cozy, ideal for a post-tasting lunch

From navigating salt deserts and historic villages to learning to drive a manual (and celebrating your automatic comeback), northern Argentina delivers the kind of travel stories you tell for years. Come for the landscapes, stay for the culture, and toast the journey with a chilled glass of Torrontés.